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The
following information is for those who provide fertilizer
recommendations to members of the public. If you are a homeowner and would
like to talk with us about fertilizing your lawn, please contact your
local University of Maine
Cooperative Extension county office.
This material is based in part
upon work supported by the National Institute of Food and Agriculture, U.S. Department of Agriculture, under agreement number
2006-51130-03956. Any opinions, findings, conclusions, or recommendations
expressed in this publication are those of the author(s) and do not
necessarily reflect the view of the U.S. Department of Agriculture.
New England Regional Nitrogen and
Phosphorus Fertilizer and Associated Management Practice Recommendations for
Lawns Based on Water Quality Considerations
By Dr. Karl Guillard,
University of Connecticut
Revised January, 2008
Introduction
Significant land-use changes have occurred in New
England during the last 30 to 50 years. Traditional agricultural crop production
has declined rapidly and is being replaced with residential and commercial
development. As urban and suburban development encroaches into rural landscapes,
turfgrass is replacing cropland as one of the largest areas of managed land
cover in the region. This situation is not unique to this region of the country;
turf is replacing cropland along the entire Eastern Seaboard of the United
States.
Because a large land area devoted to lawns in
New England is located adjacent to pond, lake, river, and coastal shorelines,
nutrient losses from lawns may contribute significantly to the degradation of
receiving waters. Many coastal and inland aquatic ecosystems in New England have
been documented as experiencing frequent algal blooms (eutrophication) that is
attributable to nitrogen and/or phosphorus enrichment. These blooms can result
in hypoxia (low water oxygen) causing death of desirable aquatic animals and
plants. Algal blooms also may interfere with recreational activities on the
water. Nitrogen (N) has been identified as the primary pollutant contributing to
hypoxia in salt water and estuaries, and phosphorus (P) has been identified as
the primary nutrient pollutant in fresh waters.
In addition to surface water
impairment, nutrient enrichment of groundwater is also of concern for
environmental and human health reasons. In much of New England, shallow
groundwater discharges into ponds, lakes, streams, rivers, and coastal waters.
Any dissolved nutrients in the discharging groundwater are then deposited into
these surface waters creating potential problems with algal blooms as discussed
above. Deeper groundwater that is contaminated with nitrate and used for
drinking water is problematic. If contaminated, deep groundwater can remain with
elevated concentrations for many years. Drinking water in New England is derived
from either groundwater wells or surface reservoirs. When drinking water
contains 10 mg nitrate-N/L or greater, it is considered nonpotable in all New
England states. In Rhode Island, an advisory is issued for drinking water
supplies that test between 5 and 10 mg nitrate-N/L. Losses of N from lawn
fertilizers contribute to nitrate-N in drinking water sources. There are human
health issues with elevated nitrate such as methemoglobinemia
with infants and possible
cancer risks for the general populace when nitrate is converted to nitrite
forming nitrosamines.
Despite water quality concerns with N and P
fertilizer losses from lawns, there has been relatively little change in
fertilizer practices for many years. The majority of lawncare companies and
homeowners still rely on decades-old fertilization recommendations and practices
where fertilizer is applied on a schedule at a set rate (usually based on 1 lb N
per 1000ft2 at each application, three or four times a year –
generally associated with specific holidays such as Memorial Day, Labor Day, or
Thanksgiving) rather than being based on an objective testing method such as a
soil or plant tissue test. This greatly increases the chance of over-application
of fertilizer. Since most lawn fertilizers contain a mixture of N, P, and K
(potassium), P and K are applied at the time of fertilization with N at amounts
depending on the percentage grade (i.e., the concentration or amount of P and K
in the fertilizer bag) and amount of fertilizer applied based on the N rate.
Therefore, P and K are usually applied regardless of turfgrass needs. In the
case of P, this could lead to water quality impairment if the amount applied
exceeds turfgrass needs.
Because of water quality concerns and the need
of revisions in lawn fertilization recommendations, this document was created to
give updated lawn N and P fertilizer recommendations and management practices
with the best information available based on science. In cases where the
research is not complete or lacking, recommendations are given based on the best
understanding that is currently available. Recommendations will be applicable to
both surface and ground water concerns, and will cover intensive to
non-intensive lawn management.
The format for this document will be as follows:
- A separate section for N and P
- A Summary list of recommendations
for N and P
- Justification and rationale for each
of the recommendations
Although N and P recommendations will be
separated out, it should be noted that many of the recommended lawncare
practices are mutually inclusive for both nutrients under a good lawn fertility
management approach.
Recommendations For Nitrogen
A standard soil test allows one to monitor soil
pH, P, K, and other nutrients, and reliable recommendations for lime and
fertilizers for lawns are developed from these tests. Soil N can be measured
accurately, however, a routine standard soil test for N and resultant fertilizer
recommendation for lawns is problematic since there are no calibration data that
relate some measure of soil N to lawn responses. Consequently, N recommendations
for lawns have been based on set rates and dates, regardless of actual needs.
Until a reliable soil test for N becomes available to guide N fertilization of
lawns, the following guidelines are suggested:
- If unfertilized lawn considered
acceptable, then do not fertilize.
- If fertilization is decided upon for
established lawn, do not apply before spring greenup and apply no
later than October 15th
in southern New England and September 15th in northern
New England; with cool-season grasses avoid fertilizing in the
mid-summer.
- If fertilization is decided upon,
apply one-half to one-third (or less) of that recommended on the
fertilizer bag label then monitor lawn response. Reapply at the
reduced rate only when lawn response starts to fall below
acceptability.
- If fertilization is decided upon,
slow-release formulations are more preferable than soluble,
fast-release formulations.
- If a soil test indicates that P
and/or K are adequate, there is no need to apply these and only N
may be necessary. In these cases, fertilizers that contain only N
(e.g., urea, ammonium sulfate, corn gluten) are preferable than
blended N-P-K fertilizers. If only blended grade fertilizers are
available, choose the one with the lowest P.
- If fertilization is decided upon,
set a target maximum loading rate of 2 lbs N/1000ft2/year
on established lawns of 10 years old or older. Newly seeded turf,
especially on new home sites where the topsoil has been removed, may
require more.
- For new turf, if soil organic matter
is below 3%, incorporate compost or another organic matter source
into the soil to raise the organic matter content to at least 3%; a
minimum of 5% would be preferable.
- Return clippings and mow as high as
can be tolerated (leave at least 3 inches). This can supply a
slow-release course of nitrogen to the lawn and allow for reduced
fertilizer applications.
- Choose grasses such as fescues that
require less nutrient and water inputs.
- Maintain soil pH levels between 6.0
and 6.5.
- Consider introduction of white
clover or other low-growing legumes into the lawn to naturally
provide nitrogen.
- If supplemental watering is
considered, avoid over-watering.
- Request a soil test for nitrate and
base N rates for your lawn (experimental option).
- If fertilization is decided upon,
leave a buffer strip of unfertilized grasses or other vegetation
around water bodies, i.e., streams, rivers, lakes, estuaries, bays,
coastal areas, vernal pools, wetlands or drainage areas, etc. Unless
the buffer width is stipulated by local or state regulations, leave
at least a 20-foot set back from the water.
- Avoid using combination products
that include both fertilizers and pesticides (weed and feed, etc.).
Justifications/Rationale
- If unfertilized lawn considered
acceptable, then do not fertilize.
For many lawns that are currently viewed as being acceptable, there
may be sufficient mineralization of soil organic matter and grass
clippings, and addition of nitrogen from other sources that meet the
N needs of existing grass species in that lawn. Therefore, no
fertilization is recommended in these cases. Fertilizing where none
is needed may increase N losses in addition to increasing the amount
of mowing needed. In certain limited cases, however, the
unfertilized lawn may have very low density. When this occurs in
combination with relatively high extractable P concentrations (>14
mg P/kg soil, based on Morgan or modified-Morgan extractant), there
may be an increased risk of P losses in sediment-bound runoff
(Easton and Petrovic, 2004; Ohno et al.,
2007). In these special cases, some N could be applied to
increase turf density to reduce the risk of P loss. An adequate turf
density will slow surface runoff, allowing for more infiltration.
However, this situation of low turf density under no or low N
fertilization may possibly be a case of incorrect grass selection
for that site. In these cases, lower-input grasses such as fescues
or zoysiagrass (a warm-season grass adapted to southern New England)
would be a better choice than Kentucky bluegrass or perennial
ryegrass.
- If fertilization is decided upon
for established lawn, do not apply before spring greenup and apply
no later than October 15th in southern New England and
September 15th in northern New England; with cool-season
grasses avoid fertilizing in the mid-summer.
Allow turfgrasses to come out of dormancy in the spring before
applying fertilizers. Soils should be allowed to warm and dry out
before fertilization. There may be sufficient N inherently available
such that fertilizer application can be delayed until late spring or
early summer if needed. Application of N fertilizers to dormant or
semi-dormant turf in the spring, or to actively growing spring turf
when evapotranspiration (ET) is low and soils saturated or slow to
drain, increases the risk of N loss. If relatively high soil nitrate
is present and ET low, then that nitrate is subject to losses during
wet conditions either by leaching or runoff, because water movement
into the plant is reduced. Under saturated soil conditions, nitrogen
could also be lost via denitrification. This is a gaseous loss of
nitrogen from the soil and constitutes a waste of fertilizer dollars
since the nitrogen does not enter into the plant. Losses of nitrogen
via denitrification also contributes to the greenhouses gas
emissions of nitrous oxide, which has about 300 times the warming
power of carbon dixoide. Turfgrass fertilized with N has been
reported to contribute as much as 30% of the total nitrous oxide
emissions from a given land area (Kaye et al., 2004). Turf
fertilized with higher rates of N has higher nitrous oxide emissions
than lower rates (Bremer, 2006).
There is evident to show that fall fertilization constitutes a high
risk for nitrate leaching, and that this risk increases with later
fall applications (Mangiafico and Guillard,
2006). For Northern New England, the last N
application should be no later than September 15th. For
Southern New England, the last N application should be no later than
October 15th.
Avoid rates above 0.5 lbs N/1000ft2 if a fall application is
made. Never apply on frozen ground; never practice a dormant
application (December–March). If water quality is of utmost concern,
avoid fall fertilization entirely – no application past August.
Research indicates that there is no quality benefit to turf in the
spring when previous fall fertilization occurred from the middle of
October to the middle of December. However, nitrate leaching losses
increased linearly as fertilizer application was delayed from
September to December (Mangiafico and Guillard,
2006). The physiological basis behind these
data is based on how a grass plant acquires N. It has to come in an
ionic form (usually nitrate, NO3-) moving with
the water stream into the plant. Movement of water through the plant
is driven by ET. Generally, ET is low during the mid to late fall in
New England. So, it is physiologically impossible for the turf to
absorb all available nitrate in the soil water solution provided by
fall fertilization, unless ET is very high over an extended period.
The nitrate not taken up by the grass is then subjected to leaching
or runoff losses. It is not logical to increase soil nitrate at a
time when ET is low and risk of leaching and runoff is high.
With cool-season grasses (bluegrasses, ryegrasses, fescues), avoid N
application in the mid-summer. Cool-season grasses can undergo heat
and drought stress during the hottest and driest time in mid-summer.
Application of N at this time only increases the stress imposed on
the grass plant that results in a further deterioration of its
roots. This can be attributed to the addition of salts from the
fertilizer formulation, or to the energy imbalance within the plant
when N application stimulates leaf growth at the expense of root
growth. Also, application of N during the mid-summer increases the
incidence and severity of diseases such as brown patch and leaf
spots.
- If fertilization is recommended,
apply one-half to one-third (or less) of that recommended on the
fertilizer bag label. Reapply only when lawn response starts
to fall below acceptability.
The fundamental problem for N recommendations is that there is
no objective test (i.e., soil test, tissue test, etc.) that is used
to guide N fertilizer rates. Currently, N fertilizer rates are based
on set dates (usually popular holidays or dates so that makes it
easier to remember – e.g., Tax Day, Memorial Day, July 4th,
Labor Day, Thanksgiving) at a set rate – usually 1 lb of actual N
per 1000ft2. The outcome is that N is usually applied 2
to 4 times a year, without any basis whether it is needed or not.
The concern from a water quality standpoint is associated with the
excess amounts and/or late season applications. There is a lack of
accounting for the inherent availability of N at any one particular
site (mineralization of soil organic matter, return of clippings,
biological N fixation from clovers, atmospheric deposition, etc.).
This is why objective testing methods are so needed. Surveys in
Connecticut have indicated that the majority of homeowners follow
fertilizer label information to guide how much to apply (Dietz et
al., 2002). And of course, the bag information uses the set rate/set
date approach described above. In the absence of an objective test,
however, one can begin with this approach of reduced rates and
refine the approach as more information becomes available from
research. The concept of applying less fertilizer more frequently
when fertility is truly required needs to replace the current set
rate-date approach. This can be accomplished by taking the
fertilizer bag directions then applying one-half to one-third what
is recommended on the label. Then monitor response for two weeks. If
response is not quite acceptable after this period, then apply a
little bit more. However, this approach needs to be coordinated with
available water. If dry weather conditions prevail, then it may be
likely that no response to the fertilizer will be observed because
little N was taken up due to a lack of water movement into the
plant. In these cases, wait until after sufficient rains arrive or
adequate supplemental watering is applied before deciding to make
another N application. If the turfgrass is viewed as acceptable
under sufficient soil moisture conditions, then no more fertilizer
is required until response starts to become unacceptable. Then
repeat the reduced-rate approach. From a water quality perspective,
it is better to apply a little bit of N more frequently, then a
relatively large amount of N. Single dose, high rate, water soluble
N applications (1 lb/1000ft2 or more) to mature turfgrass
should be avoided to minimize the potential of nitrate leaching
(Frank et al.,
2006). One cannot “take back” excess fertilizer
N, which is then subject to loss. This concept should be acceptable
when framed in the water quality protection argument. Also, it
provides opportunity for the frequent “activity” on the yard that
current research has indicated as important to the homeowner – they
are doing “something” on a regular basis. A drawback to this
approach, however, is that most lawn fertilizers contain relatively
high concentrations of N, and the homeowner spreader equipment is
not sophisticated enough to allow accurate calibration nor even
distribution of rates less than 1 lb N/1000ft2. So, there
may be frustration and disillusionment with this suggested approach
when high N containing fertilizers are used. To better reach water
quality goals with this approach, we recommend the homeowner or
lawncare professional select as low an N grade fertilizer as
possible – preferably a formulations with a maximum N grade of 15%.
- If fertilization is recommended,
slow-release formulations are more preferable than soluble,
fast-release formulations.
Choose a fertilizer than contains at least 50% of the N in a
water-insoluble formulation (higher is better). This will be stated
on the fertilizer bag label as WIN (Water-Insoluble Nitrogen). If
this percentage of WIN fertilizer is not available, then 30% would
be the next target value. There are several synthetic slow-release N
fertilizer formulations that are readily available (polymer-coated
urea, methylene urea, sulfur-coated urea, IBDU). Another good choice
in this respect is the composted, organic-derived fertilizers. From
a water quality perspective, the synthetic controlled-release
products are just as effective in lessening the threat to water
quality as the naturally organic-derived products. For the typical
homeowner, avoid formulations that are entirely soluble or
fast-release (urea, ammonium sulfate, calcium nitrate, ammonium
nitrate) if possible. With slow-release or organic fertilizers, do
not apply more than 1 lb of actual N per 1000ft2 at any
application (for protein-based organic fertilizers, follow rate
limits as for soluble fertilizer formulations that follows, since
the N release can be relatively fast). With soluble, fast-release
fertilizers, do not apply more than ½ lb of actual N per 1000ft2
at any application. Generally, there is a greater chance of nitrate
leaching with soluble formulations than with slow-release
formulations (Guillard and Kopp, 2004). However, over the long-term,
there may not be any advantage in using slow-release N formulations
if the application rates exceed plant needs; similar nitrate losses
may be observed (Petrovic, 2004).
- If a soil test indicates that P
and/or K are adequate, there is no need to apply these and only N
may be necessary. In these cases, fertilizers that contain only N
(e.g., urea, ammonium sulfate, corn gluten) are preferable than
blended N-P-K fertilizers. If only blended grade fertilizers
available, choose the one with the lowest P.
For the most part, it is difficult for homeowners to obtain N-only
fertilizers. Consequently, the most commonly available lawn
fertilizers are blended as an N-P-K formulation. If a soil tests
indicates that P and/or K are adequate, then applying a blended
N-P-K fertilizer to meet N needs adds P and K that are not
necessary. In terms of water quality issues, the extra P may be
problematic; K is generally not a water quality issue. In these
cases, N-only fertilizers are preferable (urea, ammonium sulfate,
corn gluten). For the typical homeowner, these N-only products may
not be readily available. Therefore, choose a blended fertilizer
with the lowest
P or P-free.
- Set a target maximum loading rate
of 2 lbs N/1000ft2/year or less on established lawns of
10 years old or older. Newly seeded turf, especially on new home
sites where the topsoil has been removed, may require more.
Regardless of formulation used, maintain a target maximum loading
rate of 2 lbs N/1000ft2/year on established lawns of 10
years old or older. The reasoning behind this is that organic matter
accumulation and storage of N in the soil beneath turfgrass seems to
become maximized at approximately 10 to 25 years (Porter et al.,
1980). Because of this, older mature turf has
less storage capacity for excess N than a younger turf site.
Consequently, the risk of N losses from older turf site may be
greater than a younger turf site. Newly seeded turf, especially on
new home sites where the topsoil has been removed, however, may
require more N than an older turf site. In these cases, target a
maximum loading rate of 3 lbs N/1000ft2/year following
recommendations above (half the label rate and monitor response).
Reduce the target amount to the 2 lb load or less as turf matures to
10 years old. Avoid application if weather forecast is for moderate
to heavy rains. Until a reliable soil test for N recommendations is
developed, a reasonable approach to lawns that require N would be to
target applications in the late-spring/early summer (mid/late-May
southern New England; late May/early June northern New England) and
again during late summer/early fall (no later than September 15th
for Northern New England; no later than October 15th for
Southern New England). Sweep or blow any fertilizer that lands on
hard surfaces (driveways, walkways, roads) back onto the lawn.
- For new turf, if soil organic
matter is below 3%, incorporate compost or another organic matter
source into the soil to raise the organic matter content to at least
3%; a minimum of 5% would be preferable.
With many new turf seedings or soddings, especially on new home
sites where the original top soil has been removed and replaced,
there is insufficient organic matter (OM) in the soil to support
good grass growth and establishment. This increases the reliance on
supplemental N fertilizers to ensure good lawn grow-in. Risk of
nitrate leaching and runoff loses are greatest during turf
establishment (Easton and Petrovic, 2004). During grow-in, the grass
root system is not fully developed and does not have the uptake
capacity as an established root system. Subsequently, there is a
greater potential for nitrate leaching, especially with soluble N
formulations. A lack of turf density during grow-in increases the
potential for runoff losses of N if heavy rains or over watering
occurs. Sufficient OM in the soil rootzone will lessen the need for
fertilizers during grow-in, and also provides better water-holding
capacity of the soil. As the OM decomposes, a slow and steady
release of N can be obtained. A soil test will indicate how much OM
is present. A minimum of 3% is recommended with at least 5% being
preferable. If the soil tests low in OM before a new seeding is
initiated, compost or another source of OM (e.g., peat moss) can be
added to the soil and incorporated to a depth of no deeper than 6
inches before the grass seed is sown or sod laid. If using compost,
be sure that it is mature and stable. Green compost can produce
toxic compounds during breakdown that can kill the new seedlings or
sod.
- Return clippings and mow as high
as can be tolerated.
Returning the clippings back to the turf is advocated. Use of a
mulching mower is good for this purpose, but a side-discharge mower
will work as long as the grass is mowed on a regular basis. If the
practice of returning clippings has been used for several years, the
amount of N applied based on current fertilizer bag recommendations
can be cut by half or more (Kopp and Guillard,
2002). Follow the reduced rate approach described above.
Contrary to popular belief, clippings do not contribute to thatch.
Clippings are primarily leaf blades with very small amounts of
lignin. Therefore, they are subject to rapid decomposition. Research
has shown that most of the clippings decompose within 4 weeks after
mowing (Kopp and Guillard, 2004),
releasing N back to the turf plants. A higher cut of the lawn is
desirable. A suggested height of cut would be 3 inches or higher.
This reduces the need for supplemental irrigation, which in turns
reduces the chance for over-watering that increases N losses by
leaching or runoff. A higher height of cut encourages deeper and
more extensive root system. A deeper and more extensive root system
will extract more available nutrients from the soil, thus reducing
the need for supplemental fertilizers. Keep clippings on the lawn.
Do not direct clippings onto hard surfaces (driveways, walkways,
roads) or into water bodies. Clippings are high in nutrients and
should be treated as if they were a fertilizer. Returning clippings
without a concomitant reduction in fertilizer rates may lead to
increased nitrate leaching losses (Kopp and Guillard, 2005).
- Choose grasses such as fescues
that require less nutrient inputs.
The traditional grass species mix for lawns in New England is
Kentucky bluegrass-perennial ryegrass-red fescue, with bluegrass and
ryegrass the predominate species. Often, red fescue is not included
in the mix. Kentucky bluegrass and perennial ryegrass have
relatively high requirements for nutrients and water to maintain
quality. Change selection from these higher-input requiring species
to the lower-input requiring fescues and other species. There are
the fine-leaf fescues (creeping red, Chewings, hard, sheep), and the
turf-type tall fescues (including the compact (dwarf) tall fescue
types). There is plenty of confusion, however, with turf-type tall
fescues and the older varieties of tall fescue. The older types
(Kentucky 31, Alta, Fawn) are very coarse texture (very wide),
clumpy, and have fast regrowth rates that makes them stand out in a
mixture after mowing. These are the types used for pasture and
utility purposes, such as roadside slope stabilization and medians.
For turf purposes, do not select the utility/forage types; these
will result in poor-quality lawns. Read the seed label and avoid
anything that contains Kentucky 31, Alta, or Fawn. Or, look for the
phrase “Turf-type” or “Compact-type” tall fescue. But, this is not
always readily available or listed on the label. We suggest lawn
seed with a blend of at least three different turf-type or compact
tall fescues, or a mixture of turf/compact-type tall fescue and fine
fescues (70:30 to 80:20 tall fescue: fine would be okay), or a
mixture of turf/compact-type tall fescue and a lower input or heat
tolerant Kentucky bluegrass (90:10 or 80:20, tall fescue:
bluegrass).
Where possible, choose an endophyte-enhanced fescue. Often times,
this information is included on the seed label. The endophyte is a
fungus that infects the fescue plant and produces compounds that
help to reduce aboveground chewing insects and some diseases, and
increases the drought tolerance of the grass. However, the endophyte-enhanced
fescues should NOT be used around grazing livestock including
horses. The compounds released by the fungus are not particularly
good for them. This is not a problem with dogs or cats that eat some
grass once in a while.
There are other lower-input grass species that are adapted to our
regional climate that could make acceptable lawns, but quality may
not be as good as the fescues, or there is limited evaluation of
these species to date. Try these on a small area first and evaluate
for a few years before committing them to the entire lawn. These
should not be necessarily promoted for those expecting a
higher-quality lawn, but for the lower-maintenance enthusiasts,
these would do just fine. A species that received more interest in
the past than today is redtop (Agrostis alba), which is a
bentgrass. This grass is tolerant of a wide-range of soil and
climatic conditions (it is commonly used for roadside medians and
slopes, so it can take a punch!). Zoysiagrass is a warm-season grass
that is cold-tolerant for southern New England; it is not adapted
for northern New England. This is a great grass for low-input, but
only remains green for a few months during the growing season – it
is early to dormancy in the late summer, and late to greenup in the
spring. Also, once established, it aggressively spreads and may
become a weed problem in flowerbeds and gardens, or as an unwanted
species that invades neighboring properties. But, under our summer
conditions along coastal areas or in southern New England, there is
no better grass for little to no input (especially supplemental
watering) than this grass. This would be an ideal grass for summer
coastal properties. Several new introductions are being promoted for
lower-maintenance lawns – junegrass (Koeleria spp.) and
hairgrass (Deschampsia
spp.). Limited evaluations trails at UConn have shown these species
to be very resilient under low-input conditions (1 lb N/1000ft2/year;
no irrigation, no pest control). More evaluation is needed before
strong recommendations about these species can be made for New
England.
- Maintain soil pH levels between
6.0 and 6.5.
Maintain the soil pH to between 6.0 and 6.5, as this will
encourage more mineralization of organic matter and increased
inherent available soil N to the lawn by creating more favorable
conditions for the soil microbes. This in turn will reduce the need
for external N fertilizer. Sample the soil to a depth of 4-inches
below the thatch layer. Do not include any aboveground grass parts
or thatch in the sample. Apply the amount of liming material
according to the soil test report recommendations. Generally, lime
can be applied to an established lawn at a rate of no more than 50
lbs/1000ft2 per application at any time except when the
ground is frozen. For a new seeding, the entire lime recommendation
can be applied then incorporated to a depth of 4 to 6 inches.
- Consider introduction of white
clover or other low-growing legumes into the lawn to naturally
provide nitrogen.
Low-growing legumes such as white clover or birdsfoot trefoil
will naturally provide N fertilizer to the grass (Sincik and Acikgoz,
2007). The low-growing forms should not compete excessively
with the grass species if properly managed. A higher mowing height
will help check the growth of the legumes. With white clover, choose
the small-leafed form, often called “Dutch” white clover. ‘Kalo’
birdsfoot trefoil is derived from an Oregon-selected dwarf English
variety that would be suitable for lawns. If any household member is
allergic to bee stings, however, intentionally seeding legumes into
the lawn may not be a prudent choice as the flowers attract bees.
- If supplemental watering is
considered, avoid over-watering.
The loss of N from lawns via water occurs primarily as nitrate.
This form of N is highly soluble and mobile in water. Losses of
nitrate are directly related to the amount of water running off or
leaching from turf (Morton et al., 1988; Kopp and Guillard, 2005).
Inexpensive rain cut-off sensors are available for
previously-installed automatic watering systems; newer systems
should come equipped with them. Soil water content can easily be
monitored by inspecting the soil, and visually appraising the depth
of the moist soil. The preferred approach, however, would be to let
the lawn go dormant under dry conditions. It is encouraged that
supplemental watering be limited to only those times when grass loss
is imminent due to prolonged drought.
- Request a soil test for nitrate
and base N rates on this (experimental option).
The current soil test recommendations for N are not reliable.
They have never been calibrated to any measure of N in the soil and
associated response of the lawn. Limited experimental work suggests
that a soil test for nitrate (usually available in most soil testing
laboratories) may help to guide N fertilizer recommendations.
However, this is experimental and users should be made aware of the
status of this test. The suggested protocol is to take a soil sample
one week to 10 days before the anticipated fertilizer application
date. If values are >15 ppm, then there is a low probability of turf
response to added fertilizer (little to no N needed); between 10-15
ppm, there is a moderate probability of response (a little N
needed); between 5-10 ppm, there is a higher probability of response
(moderate amounts of N needed); below 5 ppm there is a high
probability of response (most amount of N needed). This is only in
the early testing stages, but may be better than the current
approach of no objective testing. Ongoing studies should provided
better fertilizer guidelines for this approach in the next year or
two.
- If fertilization is recommended,
leave a buffer strip of unfertilized grasses or other vegetation
around water bodies, i.e., streams, rivers, lakes, estuaries, bays,
coastal areas, vernal pools, wetlands or drainage areas, etc.
Fertilizing too close to water bodies increases the chance of N
movement into the water. An unfertilized buffer strip of grasses or
other vegetation will increase the uptake and attenuation of any N
lost from the lawn in runoff or shallow, lateral-moving groundwater.
Less mowing of the buffer strip is better; higher vegetation will
also discourage geese. If a path to the water is required, mowing a
narrow path in the buffer strip in a zig-zag pattern is better than
a straight line if geese are a problem. Inclusion of vegetation
types other than grasses will increase diversity and wildlife
activity in the buffer. Unless the buffer width is stipulated by
local or state regulations (some states have 50 to 100 foot
setbacks), leave at least a 20-foot setback from the water. The
effective width of the buffer, however, will be determined by the
site conditions – wider widths will be required with steeper slopes,
lower vegetation densities, soils with poor drainage, lower
percentage of grass in the buffer, shorter vegetation heights, and
less grass in the buffer.
- Avoid using combination products
that include both fertilizers and pesticides (weed and feed, etc.).
Application rates on the bag label for combination products are
usually based on the pest control product and not the fertilizer.
This can result in over application of N. For control of summer
insects, an application of a combination product may actually
increase the incidence of summer turf diseases due to the N.
Additionally, broadcast application of combination products results
in pesticides being applied where they are not needed. It is better
to use spot applications of specific pesticides for pest problems in
lawns.
Recommendations For Phosphorus:
A standard soil test allows one to monitor soil P
accurately, and reliable recommendations for P fertilizers for lawns are
developed from this test. Most university soil testing laboratories in New
England use the Morgan or modified-Morgan extractant for P. This extractant is a
relatively weak acid that is suitable to measure the plant-available P in the
sandy soils of New England. Use of other extractants (Bray1 & 2, Mehlich 1 & 3)
will result in higher soil test extractable P than the Morgan extractants
because they are much stronger acids. Consequently, these stronge-acid
extractants may over-estimate the plant available P in New England soil due to
the solubilization of P forms that would not normally be available to turf.
These extractants are commonly used by most private or commercial soil testing
laboratories. Therefore, you should inquire as to the extractant used in the
soil test and use caution if the stronger-acid extractants are used; it will be
likely that the available P is overstated.
- If unfertilized lawn considered
acceptable, then do not fertilize.
- Soil test for P – don’t guess!
- Avoid P fertilizers on bare ground
or low-density lawns, unless it is a new seeding.
- If fertilization is decided upon,
use a P-free fertilizer on lawns near or bordering water bodies,
unless soil tests indicate that the soils are low in P.
- Avoid application of P fertilizers
prior to moderate to heavy rain forecast.
- Return clippings where possible.
Once a lawn is well established, this can often supply adequate P
for the lawn.
- Maintain soil pH levels between 6.0
and 6.5. Soil test to monitor pH levels and to guide liming
recommendations.
- If fertilization is decided upon,
leave a buffer strip of unfertilized grasses or other vegetation
around water bodies, i.e., streams, rivers, lakes, estuaries, bays,
coastal areas, vernal pools, wetlands or drainage areas, etc.
- Never apply P fertilizer to
saturated or frozen ground.
- Soil test annually for P when
applying organic fertilizers derived from composts to ensure that P
levels do not become excessive.
- Avoid using combination products
that include both fertilizers and pesticides (weed and feed, etc.).
Application rates on the bag label are usually based on the pest
control product and not the fertilizer.
- If unfertilized lawn considered
acceptable, then do not fertilize.
For many lawns that are currently viewed as being acceptable,
there may be sufficient mineralization of organic matter and/or
clippings to meet the P needs of existing lawn grass species.
Advocating P fertilization where none is needed will increase the
risk of P losses.
- Soil test for P – don’t guess!
This is relatively straight forward, in that a soil test is the
best guide to P fertilization. On established turf, if the soil test
for extractable P reads in the medium-low or greater range, or
optimum or above optimum range, or above 5 ppm (modified-Morgan P)
apply no P. If reading is low and turf quality below acceptability
with adequate N, then apply 0.5 lbs P/1000ft2 in the
spring. If reading is low, but turf quality is acceptable, then do
not apply P. On newly seeded turf, if the extractable P is in the
high or greater range, or above optimum range, or above 10 ppm
(modified Morgan P) apply no P. If reading is low, then apply 0.5
lbs P/1000ft2 preplant incorporated to a 4-inch depth,
and another 0.5 lbs P/1000ft2 surface broadcast after
grass has emerged.
- Avoid P fertilizers on bare
ground or low-density lawns, unless it is a new seeding.
In certain cases, the lawn may have very low density and/or bare
spots. This may be due to low fertility, poor water holding capacity
of the soil, soil compaction, or loss of turf due to pests (insects,
weeds, diseases, small mammals). When this occurs with relatively
high extractable P concentrations (>14 mg P/kg soil, based on Morgan
or modified-Morgan soil test), there may be an increased risk of P
losses due to runoff (Easton and Petrovic, 2004; Ohno et al.,
2007). In these cases where fertility is the problem, some N
could be applied (maximum 0.5 lbs N/1000ft2) to increase
turf density to reduce the risk of P loss. Soils that do not hold
water adequately should be amended with organic matter. Compacted
soils should be aerated and/or amended with organic matter. If pests
are the problem, they need to be controlled. In all cases, the
problem needs to be addressed and the bare spots reseeded or sodded
as quickly as possible. An adequate turf density will slow surface
runoff, allowing for more infiltration. Cover seeded areas with
straw or another appropriate mulch to prevent erosion.
- If fertilization decided upon,
use a P-free fertilizer on lawns adjacent or bordering water bodies,
unless soil tests indicate that the soils are low in P.
Near adjacent or bordering water bodies, choose fertilizers with
no P, unless the soil tests indicate that the soils are low in P.
Use a drop spreader instead of a rotary type spreader near sensitive
areas. Be mindful of local or state regulations for no-fertilizer
buffers adjacent to water.
- Return clippings where possible.
Returning clippings will add P back into the lawn, thereby
reducing the need for fertilizers. Always keep clippings on the
lawn. Do not direct clippings onto hard surfaces (driveways,
walkways, roads) or into water bodies. Clippings are high in
nutrients and should be treated as if they were a fertilizer.
- Avoid application of P
fertilizers prior to moderate to heavy rain forecast.
Avoid surface application of P fertilizers if the weather
forecast is for moderate to heavy rains. This increases the chance
of soluble P losses in runoff or by leaching.
- If fertilization is recommended,
leave a buffer strip of unfertilized grasses or other vegetation
around water bodies, i.e., streams, rivers, lakes, estuaries, bays,
coastal areas, vernal pools, wetlands or drainage areas, etc.
Fertilizing too close to water bodies increases the chance of P
movement into the water. An unfertilized buffer strip of grasses or
other vegetation will increase the uptake and attenuation of any P
lost from the lawn in runoff or shallow, lateral-moving groundwater.
Less mowing of the buffer strip is better; higher vegetation will
also discourage geese. If a path to the water is required, mowing a
narrow path in the buffer strip in a zig-zag pattern is better than
a straight line if geese are a problem. Inclusion of vegetation
types other than grasses will increase diversity and wildlife
activity in the buffer. Unless the buffer width is stipulated by
local or state regulations (some states have a 50 to 100-foot
setback), leave at least a 20-foot setback from the water. The
effective width of the buffer, however, will be determined by the
site conditions – wider widths will be required with steeper slopes,
lower vegetation densities, soils with poor drainage, lower
percentage of grass in the buffer, shorter vegetation heights, and
less grass in the buffer.
- Never apply P fertilizer to
saturated or frozen ground.
When P is applied to saturated or frozen lawns, there is an
increased risk of P losses in runoff. Allow the soils to drain
before applying the P fertilizer. The application of fertilizer to
frozen ground is never justified.
- Soil test annually for P when
applying organic fertilizers derived from composts.
For lawns receiving compost as a fertilizer source, it is
especially important to monitor the soil P levels on an annual
basis. Most composts are derived from materials relatively high in P
and low in N. To meet the N needs for lawns, most composts are
applied at high rates. Yearly applications at these rates can
increase soil P levels far beyond grass needs and exceed those
levels considered a threat to water quality (Soldat
and Petrovic, 2007). Research at UMaine has indicated that
soil P of 14 ppm (modified-Morgan P) is a threshold above which
water-soluble P could be expected in increase more rapidly with
additional P loading (Ohno et al.,
2007).
References
Bremer, D.J. 2006. Nitrous oxide
fluxes in turfgrass: Effects on nitrogen fertilization rates and
types. J. Environ. Qual. 35:1678-1685.
Dieta, M.E., J.C. Clausen, G.S.
Warner, and K.K. Filchak. 2002. Impacts of extension education on
improving residential stormwater quality: Monitoring results. J.
Ext. 40(6).
http://www.joe.org/joe/2002december/rb5.shtml
Easton, Z.M., and A.M. Petrovic.
2004. Fertilizer source effect on ground and surface water quality
in drainage from turfgrass. J. Environ. Qual. 33:645-655.
Frank, K.W., K.M. O’Reilly, J.C.
Crum, and R.N. Calhoun. 2006. The fate of nitrogen applied to a
mature Kentucky bluegrass turf. Crop Sci. 46:209-215.
Guillard, K., and K.L. Kopp. 2004.
Nitrogen fertilizer form and associated nitrate leaching from
cool-season lawn turf. J. Environ. Qual. 33:1822–1827.
Kaye, J.P., I.C.
Burke, A.R. Mosier, and J.P. Guerschman. 2004. Methane and nitrous
oxide fluxes from urban soils to the atmosphere. Ecol. Appl.
14:974-981.
Kopp, K.L., and K. Guillard. 2002.
Clipping management and N fertilization of turfgrass: Growth, N
utilization, and quality. Crop Sci. 42:1225–1231.
Kopp, K., and K. Guillard. 2004.
Decomposition and nitrogen release rates of turfgrass clippings.
Proceedings of the 4th International Crop Science Congress. 26
September -1 October, 2004. Brisbane, Queensland, Australia. (http://www.cropscience.org.au/icsc2004/poster/2/5/2/860_koppk.htm)
Kopp, K.L., and K. Guillard. 2005.
Clipping contributions to nitrate leaching in turfgrass under
variable irrigation and N rates. Int. Turfgrass Soc. Res. J.
10:80–85.
Mangiafico, S.S., and K. Guillard.
2006. Fall fertilization effects on nitrate leaching and turfgrass
color and growth. J. Environ. Qual. 35:163–171.
Morton, T.G., A.J. Gold, and W.M.
Sullivan. 1988. Influence of overwatering and fertilization on
nitrogen losses from home lawns. J. Environ. Qual. 17:124-130.
Ohno, T., B.R. Hoskins., and M.S.
Erich. 2007. Soil organic matter effects on plant available and
water soluble phosphorus. Biol. Fertil. Soil 43:683-690.
Petrovic, A.M. 2004. Nitrogen source
and timing impact on nitrate leaching from turf. Acta Hort.
661:427-432.
Porter, K.S., D.R. Bouldin, S.
Pacenka, R.S. Kossack, C.A. Shoemaker, and A.A. Pucci, Jr. 1980.
Studies to access the fate of nitrogen applied to turf: Part I.
Research project technical complete report. OWRT Project A-086-NY.
Cornell Univ., Ithaca, NY.
Sincik, M., and E. Acikgoz. 2007.
Effects of white clover inclusion on turf characteristics, nitrogen
fixation, and nitrogen transfer from white clover to grass species
in turf mixtures. Commun. Soil Sci. Plant Anal. 38:1861-1877.
Soldat,
D.J., and A.M. Petrovic. 2007. Soil phosphorus levels and
stratification as affected by fertilizer and compost applications.
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